

Have a good understanding of what you're doing, and how it works before modifying your brake system. 1 stick of 3/16" diameter line with line nuts in a 36" length.ġ0. 1 stick of 1/4" diameter line with line nuts in a 36" length.ĩ. to block off extra port in brakelight switch/prop valve.Ĩ. O'Rielly part# 120300 3/16 male inverted flare plug. this jegs brand line lock solenoid has the 1/8"npt female on both the inlet and outlet.ħ. (2 of these) 1/8npt x 3/16 female inverted flare to connect into the line lock. O'Reilly part# 124320 edlemann adapter male connector. i'll eliminate the extra fitting for a cleaner look and bend up another line.Ħ. if anyone can do this without the extra fitting i used, it would sure look cleaner, and i'd sure like to know what part number you find. didn't find any tubing line nuts listed for 9/16x20 or for 1/2x20. stock g.m is 9/16x18 threads on 1/4 tubing line. female 1/4" inverted flare (where your brake line will actually connect) i had to use this to get back up to 1/4" due to not finding a single fitting to get from 9/16x20x3/16 in the m/c to get to 1/4 tubing line for the rear brakes, which is the front port. O'Rielly part# 258430 edlemann adapter fitting. fits front port of master cylinder and runs to the rear brakes.ĥ. female 3/16" inverted flare (where your brake line tubing connects into it) by 9/16x20x3/16 male inverted flare (where it screws into the m/c. O'Rielly part# 258303 edlemann adapter fitting. fits rear port of master cylinder and runs to the front brakes.Ĥ. female 3/16" inverted flare (where your brake line tubing connects into it) by 1/2x20x3/16 male inverted flare (where it screws into the m/c. O'Rielly part# 265301 edlemann adapter fitting. Autozone reservoir part# R23804 can be bought as new m/c complete assembly with resovior for more money.ģ. O'Rielly's auto part# 10-1822 reman 1-1/32" bore chrysler master cylinder no resovoir.Ģ. the mini IMP brand type tubing cutters are very handy for tight areas.ġ. it's assumed that you already have a double flaring kit, a tubing bender, and a tubing cutter. i moved the pedal pushrod up to the upper hole and welded the holding pin in the brake pedal, and flipped the brake light switch stop plate arround to work in the bottom hole where the pushrod was originally. then rounded the end to fit into the m/c cup radius. the rod is just slightly bigger than 3/8" or. Made 3/8x16 threads on each half of the pushrod for a 3/8x16 long nut used in the middle, with 2 jam nuts to make it adjustable. I used the original pedal pushrod from the back side of the power brake booster assembly. have buddys that work for the city and txdot that get the old signs upon replacement with new ones. made it from a stop sign which is heat treated. I made a cardboard template and then an aluminum firewall plate to block off the big power booster hole and cover the air gap. i'm ready for another banzai pass to see if it stops with less foot pressure. it's holding pressure with no leaks after bleeding.
DRAG RACING MASTER CYLINDER INSTALL
Still need to tweak the lines arround some to clean up the angles and get the lines a little bit more square to each other, and rotate the line lock some to "stack" the 3 lines going front to rear, but this is a rough install at this point. also, i reused the old tubing line nut on the porp valve or brake light switch for the one line that has 1/2x20 threads going in, and cut the tubing shorter and re-flared with the old line nut going out to the rear brakes from the prop valve. There may be other ways to do this, but this is how i did it. both m/c outlet holes are inverted 3/16 flare openings. just switch your line routing at the m/c.

the front and rear fluid chambers are reversed due to the resovior having the larger chamber at the rear. but you'll have to fab up your own pedal pushrod and dust boot or order them from the above mentioned.
DRAG RACING MASTER CYLINDER MANUAL
Here's a DIY parts list for a drag race or off road racing power to manual brake conversion for the second gen camaros and probably a few others as well, using the same basic parts sold by strange and wilwood for about half the cost.
